Since 1982 we think traditional and innovative fabrics
Natural Stretch.
Each fabric, depending on how it is designed and produced, has specific dimensional changes; wool fabrics have their own natural elasticity, the result of the sum of physical, chemical and mechanical phenomena to which the fabrics are subjected in the weaving and finishing phases.
The dimensional change occurs both in the warp, assuming the name of shortening, and in the weft sense, taking the name of shrinkage.
Both of these phenomena, of variable entity, are the sum of three elements:
Yarn contraction mainly related to:
Nature of the yarn
Yarn title
Twist turns per meter of yarn
Direction of the twist of the yarn
Weaving cost due to the intertwining of the two orthogonal warp and weft elements
Finishing return due to various phenomena:
Reaction of wool with water in both liquid and gaseous states;
Reaction of wool with various textile auxiliaries;
Heat: for the diffusion of chemical products inside the fiber. It favors the homogeneous distribution of the treatment;
Pressure: it is applied through a calender and acts thanks to the passage and squeezing of the fabric between two cylinders, one of which can be heated;
Friction: has the purpose of improving the surface of the fabric; it is applied by means of a friction calender in which the rotation speeds of the cylinders are different;
Tension: stretches the fabric in both directions (width and height) to improve its dimensional stability;
In some fabrics commercially defined as “Natural Stretch” an attempt is made to exacerbate some characteristics of the fabric in order to obtain a relatively elastic fabric, without using elastomers such as Lycra, Dorlastan or Spandex.
The garments made with this technique offer a superior fit, so as to adapt to the movements of the human body, and at the same time maintain the breathability that distinguishes natural fibers, to offer increasingly advanced clothing in line with the personas identified previously.
In Super 150's Merino Extra Fun design this desired characteristic was taken into account and a finishing procedure was developed, called Permafinishing, which made it possible to obtain an elasticity both in the warp and weft direction of about 6% higher than an average fabric of the reference benchmark.
An interesting aspect was the occurrence of the phenomenon of natural elasticization in both dimensions of the product, which distinguishes it from all the fabrics examined in the benchmark definition phase.
The Permafinishing finishing procedure is based on the processing that the raw fabrics undergo both in the preparation for over-dyeing and in the actual finishing procedure in which the substances in excess of printing are eliminated.